Citrus tend to be hardy trees that can grow in most climates but prefer the hotter  conditions so prevalent in Australia with plenty of water and full sun (or at least 5 hours a day).

The Flying Dragon rootstock your tree is growing on is a tough hardy rootstock that as well as having dwarfing tendencies is also pest and diseases resistant which protects your investment from soil borne disease and pests.

There is little difference between the varieties of citrus and the disease / pests that do attack-some are specific but for the most part they share common problems-I hope we have answered any questions or queries here.

It really is as easy as adding SUN, SOIL and WATER!

Growing in a POT or CONTAINER is an ideal way of maximizing the potential of your tree. They look great on balconies / patios & verandas etc. add ambience to a swimming pool surround or a driveway. They can be pruned to shape-and can be given that Mediterranean / Tuscan look. It is all pretty easy!

Choose a pot the minimum size being 40cm. (That is 40cm deep / wide etc.)

Our plastic pots are ideal for container growing.

The pot can be either plastic or stoneware, square or round, but should also be elevated (use pot feet, pavers / even plastic bottle top lids are great) at most times they are concealed but provide drainage and air circulation. Air circulation is important as the ambient heat rising from the ground can be critical during the height of summer. This also protects against ground invasion from pests (ants etc.) and prevents staining on prepared surfaces (pavers etc.) Choose a well-drained potting soil.

Place host media in bottom of pot so that the tree is placed in the pot with the existing soil level at the top of the new soil level. Lightly tease the roots of the new tree

Finish filling pot with soil, taking care to pack well so all air is removed. Water thoroughly. Watering will need to be more frequent since tree isn't planted in the ground. Let soil dry between watering. If tree stands in water, it will get foot rot.

Fertilize every 2 - 3 months using a citrus fertilizer as described above. In the meantime, feed the tree with liquid seaweed every 3 weeks or so (during winter) and every two weeks during summer. Mulching your trees during summer is also recommended but do not allow the mulch to touch the trunk of the tree.

If planting in the ground, make sure your dwarf trees are at least 2.5 metres apart. Do not allow the trees to touch walls or fences. Dig a hole similar to the size of the pot as mentioned above and fill with water. This water should drain away within half and hour otherwise the tree will be standing in wet conditions constantly and they do not like ‘wet feet’. Fill the hole with the same host media as for pots and continue with the same regime

WHAT’S WRONG WITH MY CITRUS???

There are some excellent web sites available for further reading on this subject and are highly recommended. Try clicking here for example. Keep in mind also that ‘HORSES FOR COURSES’ is the criteria here.

YELLOWING LEAVES - This can he caused by mineral deficiencies in the soil, if there is a continued distinctive pattern of yellowing on the leaves. The common deficiencies are either Zinc or Manganese which cause mottling of the foliage.

Foliage may be yellowish during Winter or after a heavy cropping of fruit; this is not uncommon. Correct with fertilising in Spring. Yellowing leaves can sometimes occur if the ground is too wet. If it is, drainage MUST be improved or the tree will never grow well.

BRONZE ORANGE BUG (BOB) - Or commonly called the 'Stink Bug'. This develops into a large flat ugly beetle about the size of a 10 cent piece. It sucks sap from foliage and emits a disgusting odour when touched or alarmed. It is best not to venture too close to these bugs as the secretion they squirt can cause temporary blindness in the eyes, allergy reaction on the skin, and at very best, an unpleasantly smelling discoloration of your skin for some time, if they squirt you. If you must pick them off wear gloves and protective spectacles. Much better to spray with BAYTHROID. Active in the warm months.

CITRUS LEAF MINER - Squiggly lines on distorted and twisted new growth in late Summer and Autumn, can make the tree look dreadful. Spray with Pest Oil from mid-Spring onwards as a prevention. This oil is also excellent for Aphid and Scale control.

FRUIT FLY - If this pest is a problem, control with Confidor or Lebaycid. Ask for further advice regarding Fruit Fly control.

FRUIT FALL WHEN SMALL - This could be the plant is too young to cope with the large quantities of fruit, or else the tree is getting insufficient and irregular amounts of water.

LEAF DROP - Many reasons, but mainly due to inadequate watering, poor drainage which results in 'wet feet', and malnourished trees.

WHITE LOUSE SCALE - If occurring on the trunk and limbs can only be controlled with LIME SULPHUR. White oil is ineffective against this scale.