Citrus tend to be hardy trees that can grow in most climates, but prefer the hotter conditions so prevalent in Australia, with plenty of water and full sun (or at least 5 hours a day).

The Flying Dragon rootstock your tree is growing on is a tough, hardy rootstock that; as well as having dwarfing tendencies, is also pest and diseases resistant - which protects your investment from soil borne disease and pests.

There is little difference between the varieties of citrus and the disease and pests that do attack. Some are specific, but for the most part they share common problems. We hope we have answered any questions or queries here. Should you require further help, by all means contact us.

Growing in a pot or container is an ideal way of maximizing the potential of your tree. They look great on balconies, patios and verandas etc. and add ambience to a swimming pool surround or a driveway. They can be pruned to shape and can be given that Mediterranean or Tuscan look for some real sophistication. It's all pretty easy!

Our plastic pots are ideal for container growing. If using your own pots, choose at least a 40cm pot (40cm deep x 40cm wide etc.); and ensure the pot is robust enough to withstand Australian weather conditions. The pot can be either plastic or stoneware, square or round, but should also be elevated to provide adequate drainage and air circulation. Use pot feet, pavers, even plastic bottle top lids to ensure air circulation. This is very important. as the ambient heat rising from the ground can be critical during the peak of summer. This also protects against ground invasion from ants and other pests and prevents staining on prepared surfaces.

Choose a well-drained potting soil. Place host media in bottom of pot so that the tree is placed in the pot with the existing soil level at the top of the new soil level. Lightly tease the roots of the new tree.

Finish filling pot with soil, taking care to pack well so all air is removed. Water thoroughly. Watering will need to be more frequent since tree isn't planted in the ground. Let soil dry between watering. If tree stands in water, it will get foot rot.

Fertilise every 2 - 3 months using a citrus fertilizer as described above. In the meantime, feed the tree with liquid seaweed every 3 weeks or so (during winter) and every 2 weeks during summer. Mulching your trees during summer is also recommended but do not allow the mulch to touch the trunk of the tree.

If planting in the ground, make sure your dwarf trees are at least 2.5 metres apart. Do not allow the trees to touch walls or fences. Dig a hole similar to the size of the pot as mentioned above and fill with water. This water should drain away within half and hour otherwise the tree will be standing in wet conditions constantly and they do not like ‘wet feet’. Fill the hole with the same host media as for pots and continue with the same regime.

Growing your fruit trees in pots is the ideal solution for those with restricted space, little time and for those looking for the benefits of not only having the satisfaction of eating the fruit you produce, but also the aesthetics. Dwarf citrus trees grown in pots and situated in patios, courtyards and on swimming pool surrounds look fabulous. Their evergreen foliage is a delight to all eyes and when bearing fruit, they are an added bonus to your surrounds - which really gives your place that ‘good to be alive feeling’.

The question is often asked-should I buy ceramic, stone décor, terracotta, or plastic pots?

Ceramic, stone décor or terracotta pots tend to be more expensive than plastic pots. While having advantages, like anything else in this world, there will be positives and negatives. These pots, regardless of what materials are used in their manufacture, are usually quite heavy. When combined with the growing medium and then the trees themselves, the can become formidable objects to move around - so placing them in the right place from the word go, is desirable.

Like all potted trees, the growing medium will need refreshing every one to two years or so. The growing medium compresses and the nutrients included in the original planting would have been consumed and utilised by the tree it is growing in. This is a natural occurrence. It is important therefore that the pot you purchase has an ‘open’ top (conical, tapered shape, be it round or square) whereby the tree can be extracted easily complete with root ball. A ‘closed’ top pot (and many decorative are like this but impractical for growing) shaped like a bottle or vase do not allow easy removal.

Ceramic, stone décor or terracotta pots are usually made with only one drainage hole in the base. At least 4 holes are required for good drainage, so it is advisable to add these prior to planting your tree. While drilling more holes into the base of your pot is a fairly simple procedure, using a masonry bit etc. these pots are also notorious for cracking or breaking, especially the cheaper, lower-end products. Most pots will look the same, be it expensive or at the bargain end, but the more expensive pots are made of better quality materials (clay or whatever).

The best test of quality is by asking the seller of the pot to drill the holes in the pot for you. Most will do so to get a sale and if they are confident with their product. Those who refuse should be avoided, unless it is a very good excuse or they are prepared to replace the pot if you break it while drilling. We have seen some Vietnamese imported pots totally shatter - which is unfortunate, as they tend to cost quite a lot of money.

If you have to drill the holes yourself, use a new masonry drill bit with an impact drill and brace the pot solidly with wooden blocks to absorb any impact; and above all else take your time. Do not force the drill, let it do the work. Patience is the virtue here!

Make sure you also wear gloves and goggles during this procedure.

Plastic Pots are fine also and usually come with plenty of drainage holes in them. Remember the 5 drainage hole formula is the minimum requirement.

Some really nice plastic pots are now available in all types of colours and texture designs, but look for the Australian Made logo or the Australian Standards endorsement. These Australian made pots are made from high quality plastics (and maybe a little more expensive) while many imported plastic pots are not made for Australia’s dramatic climatic conditions or UV spectrum and tend to become brittle and break within a short period of time when exposed to the elements. Remember the same policy for pot selection applies - conical shape, 40cm etc.

Important - Some of these pots may also be self watering and they do work! Australian company Environs manufacturer a high quality range of this type of self-watering pots which are ideal for dwarf trees. However, if you live in the tropics and any other area which may harbour and encourage the breeding of water insects or pests in the water (i.e. dengue fever mosquito, cane toads etc) it is advisable to cover the outlet hole of these pots by placing fly screen or gauze over it (use a good glue or adhesive) to prevent the introduction of these nasties yet will still provide overflow and drainage.

Wine Barrels look fantastic and generally have no vices at all. They are usually cut in half and inverted. Once again however, you will have to drill drainage holes in the base of the barrel, and as these are hard wood, make sure the drill you use is new to allow for a clean cut. A guide hole first followed by an auger is a good way to go.

There are many other containers that are utilised by the gardener. Old bathroom receptacles (basins, bathtubs etc.) stacks of discarded car tyres, cement pots etc. Many different containers manufactured of rubber, metal, alloy, cement and so on are not really ideal for the planting and growing of (food) dwarf trees. Some metal containers may contain aluminium for example (and while the jury may be out on this) residues from these containers may transfer to the fruit. Cement pots (especially freshly made) will most definitely emit lime into the growing medium which could have an adverse affect of growth quality.

The best rule of thumb here is if these types of containers must be used, line them with plastic sheet, remembering of course to allow for drainage and this should minimize any contamination from the container itself.

1. The size of the pot should be a minimum of 40cm with 60cm (approx) recommended for optimum results.

2. Make sure the pot is elevated at all times to allow for good drainage and to allow for air circulation under the pot itself. Australian summers can be relentless and this heat can transfer to the base of the medium in the pot with chances of burning roots or drying the pot out faster than it should.

3. Never let pots stand directly in water (ie in pot saucers). Keeping the pot elevated will also help in controlling pest infiltration like ants and other pests. However, if you do have an ant problem and want to deter them from entering the pot by all means stand the pot in a water saucer, but make sure the pot is elevated away from the water itself. This twofold result keeps the pot out of the water and keeps the ants from entering the base of the pot. Makes sure to add a little kerosene to the water (if standing in a saucer) to kill any mosquito larvae, wrigglers etc.

4. Only use a premium potting mix at all times. They maybe more expensive but your aim is to give your tree the best start in life as you would a member of your family with good nutrition and education. Cheaper versions produce the equivalent cheaper result - a poor tree and poor fruit, if they grow at all.

There are some excellent web sites available for further reading on this subject and are highly recommended. Try clicking here for example. Keep in mind also that ‘horses for courses' is the criteria here.

Yellowing Leaves

This can he caused by mineral deficiencies in the soil, if there is a continued distinctive pattern of yellowing on the leaves. The common deficiencies are either Zinc or Manganese which cause mottling of the foliage. Foliage may be yellowish during Winter or after a heavy cropping of fruit; this is not uncommon. Correct with fertilising in Spring. Yellowing leaves can sometimes occur if the ground is too wet. If it is, drainage must be improved or the tree will never grow well.

Bronze Orange Bug (BOB)

Commonly called the 'Stink Bug'. This develops into a large flat ugly beetle about the size of a 10 cent piece. It sucks sap from foliage and emits a disgusting odour when touched or alarmed. It is best not to venture too close to these bugs as the secretion they squirt can cause temporary blindness in the eyes, allergy reaction on the skin, and at very best, an unpleasantly smelling discoloration of your skin for some time, if they squirt you. If you must pick them off wear gloves and protective spectacles. Much better to spray with Baythroid. Active in the warm months.

Citrus Leaf Miner

Squiggly lines on distorted and twisted new growth in late Summer and Autumn, can make the tree look dreadful. Spray with Pest Oil from mid-Spring onwards as a prevention. This oil is also excellent for Aphid and Scale control.

Fruit Fly

If this pest is a problem, control with Confidor or Lebaycid. Ask for further advice regarding Fruit Fly control.

Fruit Fall when small

This could be the plant is too young to cope with the large quantities of fruit, or else the tree is getting insufficient and irregular amounts of water.

Leaf Drop

Many reasons, but mainly due to inadequate watering, poor drainage which results in 'wet feet', and malnourished trees.

If occurring on the trunk and limbs can only be controlled with Lime Sulphur.

White Oil is ineffective against this scale.